BEETON'S

BOOK OF

NEEDLEWORK

By
Isabella Beeton

 

[105]

EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERY PATTERNS

[In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found advisable to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a sharp-pointed lead pencil. The pattern thus traced must be perforated with a fine needle in a succession of tiny holes, at the rate of about twenty to the inch. Those ladies who possess a sewing-machine will find no difficulty in accomplishing this. Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at the same time, if required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer the traced and perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only necessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the holes.]

131.--Insertion in Embroidery.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and buttonhole stitch. The outlines must first be traced and the space filled up with chain stitches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working from right to left, making short stitches, and always inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. The holes left for the ribbon to pass through are worked in plain button-hole stitch, the dots are worked in raised satin stitch.

[106]
Insertion in Embroidery.


132.--Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 10 and 16.

The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast stitch (No. 68, Embroidery Instructions), the leaves and flowers in raised satin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch, and the outer edge of the leaves in back stitch (No. 70, Embroidery Instructions) with No. 10 cotton.

Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching.


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133.--Cravat End in Embroidery.

Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk.

This graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see Nos. 76 and 77, Embroidery Instructions) and back stitching, or point Russe. Black silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate leaves may be stitched in fine black silk, and the flowers embroidered in white, with the stamens in black silk.

Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.


134.--Basket Embroidered in Chenille.

Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black chenille, and 3 of blue chenille.

This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a cover and two handles. The wicker is very delicately [108]plaited, and is ornamented with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to work. Upon the cover, work in point Russe one large star in blue chenille, with the centre and outer circle in black. All round, work small stars in blue chenille, with a black stitch in the centre. The position of these stars is shown in our illustration. The basket requires no mounting; it is not even lined.

Basket Embroidered in Chenille.


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135.--Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery.

Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton perfectionné No. 40.

Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page 90 of Embroidery Instructions) in raised button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers is embroidered in raised satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and the rosebud calyx in tiny eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses are embroidered in open-work.

Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.


136.--Cravat End in Embroidery.

Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 30.

Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the inner edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised satin stitch (see No. 77 in Embroidery Instructions). The raised dots are also worked in satin stitch (see page 90 of Embroidery Instructions). Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops and the lines of raised dots, and with a pair of embroidery scissors carefully cut away the muslin from the outer edge and from the leaves of the centre pattern.

[110]
Cravat End in Embroidery.


[111]

137.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.

Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton perfectionné No. 40.

This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see No. 68 in Embroidery Instructions). The centre is worked in raised satin stitch leaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which a wheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and fasten it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then twist the cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the centre; work over and under each of the bars until a thick dot is formed; fasten the cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round the bar opposite to the first one you worked, and finish off.

Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.


138.--Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane.

Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 4.

[112] [113]
Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane.
[114]

This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted counterpane. Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is turned back on the right side, and buttoned down at the point of each scallop. The pattern is a quilted counterpane of scarlet cashmere; the lining is of fine linen. Before embroidering it, make the points for the corners. The embroidery is worked in button-hole stitch, overcast, satin, and ladder stitch. It can also be worked on fine cambric or muslin, and then the embroidered pattern sewn on the piece of linen which forms the cover on the wrong side. Make the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sew on mother-of-pearl or china buttons.



Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.

139.--Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs, &c.

Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

This pattern is worked in satin stitch, point Russe, and point d'or on muslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or cravat ends, or handkerchief corners.



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140.--Handkerchief in Embroidery

Materials: French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 50.

Handkerchief in Embroidery.

Three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the pattern forms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are worked in [116] raised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole centres (see No. 87 of Embroidery Instructions); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch; three rows of raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the inner side of the last row of hem-stitching. This pattern looks very handsome on a broad-hemmed handkerchief.



141.--Convolvulus Leaf Insertion.

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 20.

Convolvulus Leaf Insertion.

The convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the veinings and stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting overcast stitch. (See No. 69 of Embroidery Instructions.)



142.--Insertion.

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 20.

This simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the stems alone excepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch.

[117]
Insertion.


143 and 144.--Two Patterns in Embroidery for Trimming Lingerie.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 20, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50.

Patterns for Trimming Lingerie.

These patterns are worked in point Russe and stitching; the spots in satin and knotted stitch. Illustration 143 is ornamented in the centre with lace stitches.



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145 and 146.--Insertion.

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

The two insertions, Nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin stitch, partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either side with an open-work hem.

Insertion.
Insertion.


147.--Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery.

Materials: Net, fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

The pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked on the net. The outline of the design must be traced with very small stitches, and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the veinings; the dots are worked in raised satin stitch; the border is embroidered with satin stitch flowers and scallop button-hole stitch. To work appliqué on net, see No. 117 of Embroidery Instructions.

[119]
Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery.


[120]

148.--Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat.

Materials for Pincushion: Jaconet muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16. For toilet mat: White piqué; cotton No. 12.

Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat.

The leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the eyelet-holes and stems in overcast stitch.



[121]

149.--Corner for Handkerchief In Point Russe.

Materials: French cambric, fine China black sewing-silk, or filoselle.

Corner for Handkerchief in Point Russe.

Point Russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches. These stitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are worked in black China sewing-silk or filoselle. The pattern should be repeated at each corner of the handkerchief.



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150 to 152.--Borders and Insertions.--White Embroidery.

Materials: Lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 30, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50; fine black sewing-silk.

Embroidered Border.

For the border No. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop, then draw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop (take for this fine Mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery cotton), fasten them at the places where they cross each other, and work at these places small and large spots in satin stitch. Then work the scallops in button-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with button-hole stitch all round, and make a row of button-hole stitches for the upper edge of the border, and above this a row of herring-bone stitches. The material is cut away underneath the wheels.



Corner in Embroidery.
Corner in Embroidery.

The corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in point Russe, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing silk.



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Cravat End in Embroidery
[124]

153.--Muslin Cravat.

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 50; No. 40 for the edges.

This cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends in raised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole stitch; the bouquet in the centre is worked in appliqué satin stitch--that is, the leaves of the rose and the foliage are worked separately on muslin; they are then cut out and worked in appliqué (see Nos. 113 and 116, Embroidery Instructions) upon the cravat, as seen in the illustration.



154.--Sandwich Case.

Materials: Strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black silk; 1 skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button.

This case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey or picnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any inconvenience.

The case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the edges. The words "Bon appetit," or "Good appetite," at will, are worked over it in overcast with black purse silk and steel beads, the scroll pattern in chain stitch with red silk. The back and front of the case are formed of the same strip, which is lined with oilskin, and to which narrow side-pieces are added to form the pocket. These pieces are lined and scalloped out in the same way as the back and front, and then the scallops of both sides are joined together, and worked round in button-hole stitch with purse silk.

The case is fastened down with a steel button.

If another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of [125]brown kid. The scroll pattern should then be worked in rich blue purse silk, and gold beads used for the letters, which should be embroidered as before in black silk. The edge may be worked in double overcast stitch in blue or black silk. A gold button must replace the steel when this alteration of colour is made.

Sandwich Case.


[126]

155.--Insertion.

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows of hem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of each flower.

Insertion.


156.--Cravat End in Raised Embroidery.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s. embroidery cotton Nos. 50 and 16.

This pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. The greater part of the embroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in the bouquet of the centre are worked in raised embroidery. (See Nos. 113 and 116, Embroidery Instructions.)

The dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin on the needle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the point, holding it tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and insert it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out where the next stitch is to be worked.

[127]
Cravat End in Raised Embroidery.
[128]

157.--Lady's Purse.

Materials: Russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue silk soutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread.

Lady's Purse.

This purse is embroidered upon Russia leather; an oval-shaped medallion is cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed on under the leather so as to show within the oval; both leather and silk are then lined with calico and stretched upon a small embroidery frame. The front and back of the purse are made all of one piece, the centre of which is the bottom; after the embroidery is completed a piece of leather is added on each side to give the necessary fullness. Four flowrets are worked over the blue silk, with black purse silk, in raised satin stitch, with a dot in gold thread for the centre. The stems are black and the leaflets gold. The inner border round the [129]oval medallion is worked in gold braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. The network upon the leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened at every crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round this network is formed entirely of gold braid. On the opposite side of the purse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue silk oval medallion.

The purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a clasp of gilt steel.



158.--Table-Napkin Ring.

Materials: Crimson cashmere; toile cirée; 1 reel each of white, black, green, blue, and yellow Chinese silk.

Table-Napkin Ring

Stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a piece of toile cirée, and work the pattern over it in point Russe with fine silk. The outer borders have white and black outlines, and leaflets of green silk. The stars have black and blue outlines, a yellow cross and dots. The figure between the stars is black and yellow.



[130]

159 and 160.--Knife Basket.

Materials: Grey American cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and bugles; red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some strong wire; a cigar-box.

Knife Basket.

This basket is meant for holding dessert knives. It consists of a common cigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and four-fifths wide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside and out with grey American cloth, which is ornamented with embroidery worked in appliqué. The seams are made in overcast stitch. The feet consist of four pieces of strong wire three inches and two-fifths long. These pieces of wire are first covered with wool, and then with jet beads; they are then bent into loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the box by means of holes bored into it for that purpose. The feet must be [131] fastened before covering the inside of the box. The inside of the basket is ornamented with an embroidered pattern in appliqué, which must also be worked before covering the box. The leaves are made of red cloth, the stems and veinings of black bugles. No. 160 shows the pattern in full size; the flowers and leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, over which small stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals. Inside the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with American cloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten on to this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven inches long, wound round with beads. The basket is ornamented with ruches of red worsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a black bugle is fastened.

Knife Basket.


[132]

161.--Satin Stitch Embroidery.

Materials: Purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4 shades of red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist.

Fuchsia Spray.

This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural colours of the flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one colour, on silk canvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and should be worked in raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in gold twist.



[133]

162.--Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch Embroidery.

Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1 skein of brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the flowers.

Acacia Spray.

This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch embroidery; the flowers should be carefully shaded, and the veinings should be worked before the leaves are embroidered. The flowers may be worked gold colour, or imitate the white acacia blossom.



[134]
Tobacco Pouch.
[135]
Tobacco Pouch.
[136]

163 and 164.--Tobacco Pouch.

Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth for the pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass rings; gimp cord; and silk tassels.

This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full size; the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These patterns represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are cut out of cloth and worked in appliqué over crimson cloth.

In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from which the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case yellow in cloth appliqué, the cigars brown in satin stitch. The case is crossed by two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and edged all round with button-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes are of white cloth, edged round with yellow silk; the shade is imitated by long stitches of grey silk. The upper part of the pouch is of blue cloth, with a white silk edging and yellow dots; the under part of brown cloth with a black edging and a pattern worked in chain stitch with white; the three tassels are embroidered with black and yellow silk.

In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the small pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes of white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The bundle of cigars is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on with double rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light green cloth, edged with white; the Grecian pattern and dots are embroidered over it with white silk also.

To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together by seams, which are hidden under yellow [137] soutache; cut out also and join in the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten it on to the crimson cloth at the top only. Sew small brass rings round the top, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk tassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of its four corners.



165.--Insertion

Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

Insertion.

This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. It is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; the circles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or the pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the linen cut away.



[138]

166.--Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, Workbaskets, &c.

Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glacé silk; gold beads.

This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe, with coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton, and ribbon are worked in appliqué with glacé silk. The colours are chosen according to personal taste. The thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. A bead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate the screw.

Pattern for Needlebook, &c.


[139]

167.--Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, &c.

Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads.

The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers in point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; the interior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dotted stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon is embroidered in appliqué, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon.

Pattern for Needlebook, &c.


[140]

168 and 169.--Travelling Bag

Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2 shades of a pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white, brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid.

Travelling Bag.

This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when completed, the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This bouquet is also worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the white wool is passed several times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the required thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with white silk. The centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellow silk. [141]The buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white silk at the point instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of green wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are embroidered in overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border round the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel beads.

Bouquet for Travelling Bag.
[142]

The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured purse silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, by inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. When you have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work on either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk, which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the Java canvas being covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow outline comes a border worked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this border is alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. A star is embroidered in point Russe in the centre of each square; it is grey in the blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in the middle of each star. The small crosses between the squares are worked in cerise. The outer border of the work is composed of a piece of black soutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front and back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side pieces are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14 inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined with [143] light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp.



170.--Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices.

Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.

This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming. It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-hole stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loose [144] button-hole stitch in black silk. The feather-like branches are worked likewise in black silk in herringbone stitch. The white spots are worked in raised embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow ribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches:

Trimming for Bodices.


171, 172, and 173--Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery.

This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; if lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The patterns, which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or; the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. The flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration on account of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at the corresponding places. No. 172 shows the wing of a bird, No. 173 a rose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely in button-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This pattern may also be worked on glacé silk with purse silk.

[145]
Wing of Bird,Rose Leaf,Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery.
[146]

Pattern for Glove Box.

174 and 175.--Glove Box.

Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various colours. A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished.

Glove Box.
[147]

The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of the embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are worked in overcast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and the small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point Russe. The leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scalloped outline which has no leaves is red. The pine patterns are worked in satin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones are pink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged with maize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. In the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and yellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, and [148] red; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green.

The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slipped through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at the side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon which initials might be embroidered at discretion. The four corners are ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with the embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, and one to the box.



176 and 177.--Hanging Letter Case.

Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and fine gold bouillon.

No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, No. 177 the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size.

The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11 inches long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a pattern in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES embroidered in gold bouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satin beads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern is embroidered in gold bouillon.

The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and forms the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is composed of 11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead is placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. The other flowers are also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon.

[149]
Hanging Letter Case.
[150]
Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case.


[151]

178.--Embroidered Edging.

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24

Embroidered Edging.

This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch; the edge in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satin [152] stitch. The stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (No. 122, Embroidery Instructions).



179.--Border in Oriental Embroidery.

Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2 shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet.

Border in Oriental Embroidery.

The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours. These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The outer row of the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. Following the same arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the third of two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. The knotted stitch in the centre is violet. The dots outside the ovals are worked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, and blue. The stems are long stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns between those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk [153] of two shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much as you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should remain the same for the whole of the border.



180 and 181.--Embroidery Stars.

Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collars and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, round an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. 81, Embroidery Instructions) is worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms the edge.

Embroidery Star.


Embroidery Star.

No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star is filled with lace wheels.



182 and 183.--Key Bag.

Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glacé silk; purse silk of 5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, and white; grey silk cord; grey glacé silk ribbon.

[154]
Key Bag.
[155]
Key Bag.

This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The embroidery imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in the upper part of which sits an owl, "the bird of night." [156] The poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5 shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades in satin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearly seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of the owl are embroidered in scarlet and white silk. Illustration No. 183 shows the other side of the bag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk appliqué figures, in the form of a Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The screws of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with silver-grey silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of the bag with a border of grey glacé silk ribbon, which must, of course, continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of a loop and steel button.



184 and 185--- Embroidery Patterns for Trimming Cravats, Bodices, Morning Caps, &c.

Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.

Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 24 for lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes.

[157]

These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimming various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they make pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, or thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toilet pincushions. The patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch and edged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch. When the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cut away inside the leaves and spots.

Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.


186 and 187.--Pen-Wiper in Cloth Appliqué.

Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4 red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small black beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure.

This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. No. 187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are 4 white and 4 red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In the centre of each red circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a red [158] star, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. The border, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silk on the red, and with black on the white cloth. The centre of the pen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the side ones, worked in point Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the circles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge. The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with black [159] glazed calico, and a small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the centre. The circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens.

Pen-wiper in Embroidery.
Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper.


188.--Insertion.

Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 30.

Insertion.

The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitch round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars are worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround each flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row of hem-stitching on each side.



189.--Insertion.

Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.

This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edged on both sides with a row of hem-stitching.

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Insertion.


190.--Cigar Case.

Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold thread.

The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown in the illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked in fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On the opposite side of the cigar case initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.

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Cigar case
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191.--Wicker Waste Paper Basket.

Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; and glazed calico.

Waste Paper Basket.

The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It rests upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made by any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimming consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen [163] fringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailing colour of the room.



Insertion.

192.--Insertion.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole [164] stitch, and embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch.



Embroidered Linen Collar.

193 and 194.--Embroidered Linen Collars.

Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. [165] No. 194 is worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of Embroidery Instructions), and point d'or with white cotton, and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with white cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of Embroidery Instructions.)

Embroidered Linen Collar.
[166]

What-not in the Shape of a Hammock.

195 and 196.--What-not.

Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk; green chenille; cord and tassels.

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Pattern for What-not (full size).

This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to place upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196 one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine [168] canvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked in Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of a light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with sea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined and quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top with green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels.



197.--Embroidered Handkerchief.

Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief, which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design is simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine French cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon toile cirée. The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40 will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle.

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Handkerchief Border.
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198 and 199.--Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery.

Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk; steel or gold clasp.

These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be employed on a variety of articles.

Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.
Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.

The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin [171] stitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk. Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and black.



200.--Work-Bag.

Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather.

Work Bag.

This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqué embroidery. The inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the [172] satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in appliqué embroidery. The different figures are sewn over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in appliqué embroidery like the rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.



201 to 203.--Pattern for Braces.

Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.

Pattern for Braces (full size).

These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with [173] loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool. Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The vandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole stitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203 shows another [174] way of working these braces on fine ribbed piqué. Work any Berlin wool work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqué. For the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double divided by 3 chain stitches.

Embroidered Braces.
Pattern for Braces (Full size).


204.--Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk.

Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.

This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark patterns are worked in appliqué with black velvet, the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the centre of it.

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Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk.


[176] [177]
Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.
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205.--Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 6 and No. 12; net and muslin.

The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut away all round the pattern.



206.--Venetian Border.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 12 and No. 16; net and muslin.

Venetian Border.

This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground work.



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Lace Insertion.
[180]

207.--Lace Insertion.

Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.

This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the entire space surrounding the open holes.

To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This pattern may be worked in appliqué by placing muslin over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully cutting away the muslin.



208 and 209.--Slipper on Java Canvas.

Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some wadding; 2 cork soles.

Slipper on Java Canvas.

This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light [181] brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle. It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch nearly full size.

Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)


210 and 211.--Medallions in Point Russe.

Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk.

These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers, cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in point Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrasts with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in appliqué on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left to the personal taste of the worker.

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Medallion in Point Russe.
Medallion in Point Russe.


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212.--Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner.

Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk.

This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in order more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe and scallop stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallop stitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raised by the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-hole stitches. The outlines and flowers are worked in point Russe, the dot in knotted stitch (see No. 73, Embroidery Instructions.)

Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner

The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, and should be worked with great regularity.



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213 to 215.--Pattern for a Couvrette in Appliqué. (see pages 576-7.)

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 24 and 30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk of the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; gold thread.

This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. It is worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels net.

The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines are embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. The medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out of flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then upon the blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions in overcast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour. The scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and arrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair in fine brown silk. The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round in button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the couvrette has to be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked round them (see No. 81, Embroidery Instructions). The openings in the centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches.


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